Tuesday, November 24, 2015

Dr. Royer: Traditional Korean Medicine

Dr. Raimund Royer, KMD, PhD, who is the Head of the International Clinic at Jasaeng Center for Alternative Medicine, gave an introductory lecture at the Itaewon Global Village Center on what is traditional Korean medicine and a bit on its efficacy.

In Korea, there are two kinds of medical therapy. One is the Western medical science called “yangbang”, and "hanbang" is for the Korean traditional medical treatment system. Similar to other Asian therapies, hanbang utilizes natural components to cure the human body. Instead of removing or focusing treatment on bad parts of the body, it tries to strengthen related organs and help the body to overcome the disease itself.

The philosophy behind Korean medicine, along with other Eastern medicines, is based on three points of view:
  • Universal view: Everything is a unique entity.
  • Nature is motion: Motion is change; motion is qi.
  • Nature is interrelated: Everything is somehow related to everything else.
Source
The five elements reflect on aspects of the whole body, and when the elements are in balance, the yin and yang of the body are also well balanced with the overall outcome being a body filled with the vitality of the elements in good flow and circulation and therefore being in a state of good health.


The above picture might suggest that traditional Korean medicine is simplistic, when in actuality it is a complicated system of yin and yang, ebb and flow, 27 pulses, and a whole lot more. A chart characterizing the normal relations between the five elements is below. [Click to enlarge]


WOOD - yang power
  • Beginning, like in spring when sprouts break through the soil, and new life comes into existence.
  • Strong upward and spreading character
  • Viscera: liver -- birth, spring, wind, tendon, eye, anger
FIRE - yang power
  • The yang energy reaches the extreme, as in nature, flowers bloom.
  • Heat 
  • Viscera: heart -- spirit, blood vessels, tongue, joy
EARTH - yin and yang power
  • Earth harmonizes with wood, fire, metal and water.
  • In the circle spectrum, earth holds center position and has energy to change and transform external growth into internal maturity.
  • Viscera: spleen/pancreas -- digestive tract, energy supply for whole body, flesh, lips, thinking
METAL - yin power
  • Solid and cold
  • Growth of spring and summer stops, fruits ripen
  • Dispose of unnecessary things
  • Viscera: lungs -- respiration, skin, nose, voice, sadness/grief
WATER - yin power
  • Cold and icy
  • Water stores all energy and essences and prepares for new spring
  • Mostly yin character but contains yang energy too for preparing for spring
  • Viscera: kidneys -- storage of vital essence, vitality, bones, ear, hair, sexuality, fear

Qi (Vital Energy) and Meridians
  • Basic energy element that constitutes the cosmos
  • Produces everything in the world through its movements, changes and transformations
  • In the human body, the refined nutritive substance that flows within the human body
  • Circulates in a circuitry system much like the Seoul subway lines; the system connects organs, extremities and all tissue.
  • Accu-point - Certain point along a meridian that strongly responds to stimulation; considered as a reservoir of qi with high therapeutic response.

Deficiencies

Qi deficiency
Fatigue and low energy
Sweating even without exercising
Weak pulse
Hernia
Blood deficiency
Pale face, lips and nails
Light-headedness, tinnitus, palpitation
Irregular periods, reduced flow, in severe cases no menstruation
Yin deficiency
Weight loss, dry mouth, dry skin, tinnitus
Dizziness, palpitations, anxiety, sleeping disorder
Night sweating
Sexual dysfunction
Yang deficiency
Feels cold
Cold feeling in lower back and knees
Weak in legs with walking problems
Diarrhea, frequent urination
Low sexual function
Principle of holistic medicine

The human body possesses innate recuperative power so treatment is to (1) promote individual health via the treatment of organic dysfunction, and (2) harmonize the mental state and social relationships.

Herbal Medicine

The basic idea is that each plant, mineral, etc. has certain characteristics and energetic properties
Example: Ginseng
  • Qi-tonifying medicinal with over 200 active chemical substances
  • Flavor - sweet, bitter
  • Qi - warm
  • Meridian/organ entry - spleen/pancreas, lungs, heart
  • Effect - dispels fatigue, sexual dysfunction, digestive problems, anxiety
In using herbal medicine, the recipe consists of different herbs as based on each individual's needs. The 8 main therapeutic purposes for using herbals are:
  1. Perspiration - induces sweating
  2. Emetic - induces vomiting
  3. Purgative - promotes defecation
  4. Harmonization - balancing
  5. Warming - supports yang energy
  6. Heat-clearing - reduces internal heat
  7. Tonifying - treats qi, blood, yin and yang deficiencies
  8. Resolving - dispenses sores, ulcers, etc. 
Bee venom therapy, for strong anti-inflammatory pain relief and for strengthening the immune system, is also used. Pharmacopuncture also figures into traditional Korean medicine and is used for pain control and supporting muscles/ligaments along the spine.

Dr Royer checking the pulse -- three pulses on the left wrist and three more on the right.
Each pulse corresponds to a different organ.

Sunday, November 22, 2015

Historical Development of Gunsan

The Modern History Museum in Gunsan has a wealth of information (as it should) on the historical development of the city, and or course putting emphasis on the colonial period as that was when the development of the farming village boomed into a throbbing city and a vortex for Korean freedom fighters. The following is information taken from the museum:

Modern-day Gunsan - the big ships are located nearer the mouth of the river.
Before opening Gunsan port and the subsequent development of port facilities, the town served as a harbor through which ships could come. [I believe the only ships allowed prior to the opening of the Korean ports were the Chinese as Korea only had trade relationships with that country.] 

Gunsan was a natural port, and small ships could reach up to 30 ri [?] from the mouth of the Geum River, and it was judged by evaluating its natural width and depth that small steamers and 3000-ton vessels could be safely anchored even before port construction began. [The Japanese were the first to force upon the ports of Korea, the then Hermit Kingdom, and within a few short years were pressuring Korea to open more and more ports. They were particularly interested in the rice production in the fertile Honam plains and pressed for the opening of Gunsan, which was ideal as a protected port and having close proximity to the Honam plains. In the late 19th century Gunsan became a port which was opened to international trade. Japanese flocked to the port town.] 

Soon after the opening of Gunsan port on May 1, 1899, a settlement was established in the coastal area, and the Okgugamriseo (Governmental Office) was built to manage the port. Daehan Jeguk (the Korean Empire) consigned the various countries to control the settlement jointly to prevent Japan from having a monopoly. However, after the port opening, Gunsan came under the control of Japanese imperialists, which led to distorted economic growth.

Gunsan as an international settlement

The definition of settlement in the late 19th century was an area where foreigners could live and enjoy extraterritorial rights. Gunsan International Settlement was formed in 1899 and lasted until 1914. After the settlement was formed, the houses and tombs of Koreans were torn down, and the land not designated for public use was auctioned.
Newspaper articles: 
May 30, 1909:  The weights and measurements currently used across Korea have not yet been standardized, causing inconvenience in general commerce. For this reason, they must be unified. Japanese weights and measures are being used in some parts of Korea as a trial. 
May 12, 1910: Japanese households and population recently surveyed by the Residency General. In Gunsan, 2,508 Japanese households and 8,161 population. "Seen from the vast Jeonju plain, amounting to 50,000 seok. A jeonbo of land is only 4.5 won. [A jeonbo is about 30,000 pyeong, a pyeong is 3.3 square meters.] Nothing more needs to be said. Come to Korea. Immigrate to Korea." Many Japanese people -- including farmers, merchants and vagabonds -- flocked into Korea with the dream of making a quick fortune. 
Gunsan Customs House, which opened in 1899 under the jurisdiction of the Inchon Customs House, is where duties on goods brought into Gunsan harbor were collected. A German architect designed the European-style house and imported red bricks from Belgium and used the same style as the headquarters of the Bank of Korea. Inside walls are wood and the roof is made of slate and copper sheets. This building remains as a symbol of the exploitation inflicted on the Koreans by the Japanese during their colonial rule.
Japanese-style house in Sinheung-dong, the Hirotsu House, built approximately 1925.
Statistics on the population in Gunsan under the Japanese colonial rule

Around 1890, before the port was opened, Gunsan had been a small, calm village located
at the mouth of the Geumgang, but the population increased remarkably after the port was opened.
Newspaper articles:  
March 29, 1904: Japanese people have already purchased about 100 jeongbo of land in the Gunsan region, but despite this, they continue to purchase more land. 
April 7, 1904: According to Joseon Shinbo, more and more Japanese capitalists and speculators have brought land in and around the Gunsan region. Unfortunately, more are interested not in farming but in real estate speculation. 
The economy for farmers worsens day by day. The farmers have pawned their land and rely on loan sharks. Farmers are coaxed into selling their land for a song by dishonest Japanese merchants, under the table at first, but later in plain sight.

Throughout the entire period, the Jeonbuk area had an overwhelmingly large ratio of farmland compared with other areas, and there was a great deal of land exploitation ... as can be seen from the chart above comparing 1910, 1920 and 1930. 
The largest Japanese landowner, Gumamoto, at the Gaejeong Hospital, Gaejeong-dong, Gunsan-si, owned 3,500 jeongbo of rice paddy land in 1932. To put the amount of land into perspective, he owned the 10 times larger than the current area of Yeouido [2,479,338.84 square meters]. The land was vast, spreading across 1 bu, 5 gun and 25 myeon.

Comparison of sale price, net profit, profit ratio on land between lands in Gunsan and Japan


As indicated in the table, a rice paddy transacted at less than 1/10 the price of a rice paddy in Japan, but was guaranteed a profit ratio of 4 times or more higher. The cheap land price and high profit ratio caused Gunsan area to be exploited severely.
Newspaper articles:  
May 30, 1907: 700 Japanese boats were operating illegally near Impi, Jeollabuk-do, and a number of outrages have been committed by the Japanese fisherman, including sexual harassment of a woman near Gunsan port. 
May 16, 1909: During the farm hardship period, the local farmers in the Gunsan region were starving due to shortages of food, with some people allegedly digging out grass roots to eat.
An on-going struggled to resist the Japanese ensued with actions including farm tenancy disputes by workers at the ports and rice-grinding mills, the Korean March 1st Movement, and raising an army at the end of Joseon Dynasty to fight for the cause of justice. 

The history of resistance in Gunsan:

1919
March 5 - Yangmyeong schoolteacher and student-centered street protest
March 23 - Lee Nam-ryul and Kim Su-nam committed arson in Gunsan Public Elementary School.
March 29 - Jin Jang-kwon was discovered preparing for the street protest in Impi.

1927
November - Farm tenancy dispute by Western District union members took place in Okgu.
February 1928 - A verdict hearing for a farm tenancy dispute was held in Gunsan District Court Jeungjeong rice-grinding mill.

1930
February - A strike for a wage increase by workers on Namseon rice-grinding mill
October - A strike in Yukseok rice-grinding mill; a strike in Heujeon rice-grinding mill

1934
January - A strike on a wage issue in Gadeung rice-grinding mill
April - [Dated April 23, Dong-A Ilbo] The sowing season imminent, but about 70 workers have gone ... those who want to find a way to make a living [sic]
[August 1, Dong-A Ilbo] - Four largest rice-grinding mills in Gunsan close their business. Layoff of about 1,000 employees.
Newspaper articles: 
January 20, 1932: Cases of theft are on the rise due to extreme poverty. Houses left unlocked have seen shoes, braziers, and A-frames stolen. You should be on your guard against the thieves, as all of them are opium addicts. 
October 10, 1936: Residents in Gunsan showed sympathy. A relief fund for victims was raised from different places.
The farmers living in Gunsan were reduced to being sharecroppers, and their families were also subordinate to the Japanese-owed plantations. They underwent all sorts of hardships as feudal sharecroppers, the lowest class of people. Needless to say, as sharecroppers and semi-sharecroppers they cannot make a living independently.

Rice exploitation trend at Gunsan port

The rice type exported through Gunsan Port was unpolished rice. Exploitation of unpolished rice was remarkably higher at Gunsan than at Busan or Incheon ports. Of all the rice, 70% was heading for Osaka, followed by Kobe and Tokyo.


As indicated in the table, exploitation was rising incredibly compared with production, indicating that exploitation was taking place according to schedule even though the planned increased in rice production had failed. Taking into account that exploitation of rice affected the sharecroppers most precipitously, the rate of poverty cannot be imagined. In 1933 exploitation reached a peak, with more than 53% of all rice products being transported to Japan.
Newspaper articles: 
November 28, 1907: The completion of the Public Gunsan Elementary School was celebrated on November 10, 1907. In terms of expenses, the legal advisor Suzukilimcha [Japanese] and members of school faculty gave explanations in turn about the significance of education and consciousness, and collected donations that added up to 300 won. On the celebration day, a ceremony was held from 10am - 12pm, followed by an athletics meet. 
May 19, 1909: Kim Yong-hwan, who lives in Bugok-ri, Habuk-myeon, Impi-gun, established Hanil School in 1907, and has been recruiting youths and professors from all over the country. His father, Kim Sang-hyeok, often offers refreshments to his students, commending his son for his good will and actions. The students have a great interest in learning. 
May 27, 1909: Since the Education Department authorized public schools in Gunsan, Daegu, and Hamheung to admit female students, it has been found that the academic performance of the girls has been satisfactory, so public elementary schools in Ganghwa, Mokpo, Gaeseong, Masan, Jeonju, Pyeongyang, and Yeoju, as well as the public Eoeui-dong elementary schools, have since been authorized to teach girls. Japanese female teachers will be appointed to teach the girls.
Gunsan Youth Adult Group has established a working night school to provide the destitute poor with a learning opportunity. On behalf of men without learning, Im Man-chun and Lee Seong-ok organized Miseongong/Maegari Cooperatives for the purpose of providing education to illiterate adults in a social setting.

1,500 won was collected to pay for wood and roof tiles, and a cooperative building with 10 offices was built. A celebration was held on September 20, 1921 to mark the completion of construction. A night school for illiterate women has been operating since October 1.

A night school in Gunsan:

The private Yangyeong School was established at #94-7 Changseong-dong, a mountain town in Jeongeup, by Han Sang-seol, a wealthy man, in 1918.

This school was the result of a save-the-nation drive actively promoted in the Japanese colonial period. It was a place for a patriotic social movement that aimed to enlighten people as a way to set the deprived nation right. This was the school that carried on the legacy of the anti-Japanese educational movement between 1910 and 1919.

Compared to Korea's bleak national illiteracy rate of 77.7% in 1930 [male 63.9%, female 92%], the national illiteracy rate was in fact even more severe in 1918. The new school was a 4-year school for uneducated women in Gunsan during the day, while at night uneducated men were taught Japanese, mathematics, Korean and commerce. The school was closed due to financial difficulties and a decrease in the number of students. About 100 students and parents protested the closing of the school, weeping for days and nights.

Characteristics of architectural structures during the Japanese colonial period


Gunsan branch of the Bank of Joseon was constructed in 1922 and featured the brick construction of a typical bank. Compared with other banks in the local area, this building was very large in scale, and one of the highest building structures in Gunsan at the time of its construction. The 2nd floor had almost no function, but despite this, the building was designed as a 2-storey building with a hipped rectangular high rooftop, apparently only to give the building presence rather than function.
It employed western classical architecture but had moderate decoration, similar to the modern secessionism that was in vogue in Europe in those days. The height, foundation, frames and roof are proportionate. The roof, buttressed by wood trusses, are quite rare in modern Korean architecture.

The establishment of the night school in Seosu

After opening Gunsan barbor, the Japanese who settled in Seosu in 1904 felt the need of unite organization, thus, established Yiyeopsa farm in 1926 as a cooperative farm.

Yiyeopsa farm was vast with 1700 tenant farmers. Meanwhile, two students of Jeonju High School -- Jang Taesung (also known as Jang Gonguk) and Park Sangho -- were ousted from their school because of the student movement. Out of this incident, the will of peasant movements was born. This pushed peasants to establish a night school at Seosu-myeon Yongjun-lee which was humbly located in Lee Heyongno's house. They educated the public with the aim of eliminating illiteracy and stirring up national consciousness by teaching how to draw the Korean flag. 

The diffusion of a national consciousness: After the March 1, 1919 activity in Gunsan, which was hot, a national consciousness spread and was organized by Okgu tenant combination establishment (March 10, 1927) and Seosu Youth Club organization (August 8, 1927). After that, people resisted Japan. In a farmer speech hosted by Seosu Youth Club organization on November 9, 1927, hundreds of people besieged Seosu police substation and cried for freedom of the press. After the organized Seosu peasant assembly and protest, hundreds of members stages a demonstration in front of Lee Yiyeopsa farm.

Oppression and resistance at Yiyeopsa farm

The oppression at Yiyeopsa farm against the Joseon tenant farmers had been going on since the farm's establishment, but in 1927 when peasants were told to pay 75% of their crops, peasants refused as they would be unable to live off of the remaining 25%. The peasants asked for leniency in that they could keep 45% of the crops, but the farm firmly refused and on November 24, 1929 were given warnings for non-payment. Ultimately, with the peasants uprising and rebellion, they were given a peasant's income exemption. [Not clear on what this entails.]

Because of the tenant farmer's nonpayment for their tenancy, Yiyeopsa farm demanded help from the police and too Jang Gonguk, the leader behind the farmer's movement, away. He was arrested at 8am on November 25 and taken to Impy police substation. Because of this, peasants' league struck a gong and gathered about 500 tenant farmers at night. About 300 of them attacked Impy police substation and beat Japanese guards. They cut Jang Gonguk's handcuffs off and carried him on their backs shouting 'hooray'. Another 200 farmers attached Seosu police substation and three rocks, making the Japanese run away to wild cries of 'hooray'.

The trouble of the peasant's trial was attracting national attention. Three lawyers, including Kim Byeongro, who worked pro bono, represented the defendents. At the trial, Kim Byeongro pointed out that the police were to blame for the chaos that was being charged to the defendants. Despite a strong case, Jeonju District Court in Gunsan charged the 35 leaders guilty and convicted them. The deprived peasants couldn't find a way to express their grief and sorrow. 

When Gunsan police received a report that the peasants were holding a demonstration, they called out to arrest the 30 people who were the leaders and heads of the union. These 30 leaders were detained at the police station. After which about 200 farmers, including women, gathered outside Gunsan police station to demand for the release of the innocent convicted peasants. As the crowd's pressure was increasing, Japanese police needed to disperse them, escalating the crisis and leading to the arrest of 50 more people, some of whom were women. Of the 80 prisoners, 34 were sent to the public prosecutor's office after harsh investigation. The 30 women were released.

Commemoration of the heroic anti-Japanese peasants: By forced suppression, tenant farmers were expelled from their home town and forfeited their farmland. Descendants of expelled tenant farmers lived a hard life and were under surveillance and pressure by the police. After independence, some people in Gunsan and descendants built a monument for the Okgu peasants' anti-Japanese war to remember the spirit of Okgu peasants fighting against the oppression. They hold a civil ceremony annually to commemorate their ancestors' fight. 18 of the 34 peasant patriots, who were judged as guilty by the Japanese rules, were initially commemorated. Recently, three more related men of merit were included in the commemoration.

Changes in Gunsan over time


The Gyeongam-dong Railroad (in operation from 1944 to 2008)

Gyeongam-dong Railroad - The railroad the Japanese built in 1944 to carry raw materials for newsprint is no longer is use and has largely been removed to facilitate expansion of the city or road construction. The 2.5 kilometer-long railroad operated twice a day and ran through the middle of a densely-packed residential area. Three station employees would blow whistles to tell people to grab their belongings and get out of the narrow path of the on-coming train. The train ceased to run in 2008 but the area is being overtaken by artsy vendors, and the walls and gardens are designed to be cutesy to attract customers. It's become a popular place for dating and has even been featured in a couple of movies, increasing its popularity.
Sites along the Gyeongam-dong Railroad
Picture contributed by Kathleen O'Connell
The art wall at the end of the Gyeongam-dong Railroad
Picture contributed by Rainer Rippe

For more on Gunsan, read about Gunsan in colonial Korea.

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Sinking of the Cheonan: A Political Report

International Strategy Center based in Seoul hosted a lecture-dialog on the controversial sinking of the Cheonan on March 26, 2010 at 9:20am. Kim Sang-Gyoon, the presenter, is a former MBC producer for the Current Affairs & Documentaries Department producing "W: World Wide Weekly", "Now We Can Speak", to name a few. Well qualified in work and leadership, Kim additionally qualifies in scholarship in Journalism and Mass Communication (PhD).

Media Coverage of the Cheonan Corvette Sinking and Impact on East Asia
The Cheonan Corvette sunk on March 26, 2010 killing 46 sailors. At that time the media just parroted the government line that a North Korean torpedo attack was to blame ignoring many of the questions and inconsistencies with the results of the investigation. Nonetheless, South Korea, the US, and Japan strengthened measures against North Korea. Kim, Sang Gyoon, a former MBC producer, lectures on the media coverage of the Cheonan Corvette sinking and its impact on East Asia.
Some interesting points addressed in the lecture:
  • There is antagonistic symbiosis between South Korea, North Korea, and Japan as well as the more far-reaching countries. The three countries specifically mentioned look like enemies and yet they depend on each other for economy, increasing the military budget, etc. 
  • During the first three days or even longer, no mention whatsoever of North Korea attacking the Cheonan was mentioned. Later, there was dialog among South Korea, Japan and the US and then the news was filled with the notion that North Korea had torpedoed the Cheonan with 250kg torpedo which exploded underwater creating an air-bubble environment which resulted in the sinking of the Cheonan. (Later when the Cheonan was rescued from the sea floor, no evidence of torpedo or detonation or chemical trace from explosives was evidenced.)
  • The derogatory Korean term giregi (기래기), which is a metaplasm created from 기자 (reporter) and 쑤래기 (trash/garbage), was coined during the atrocious reporting of the sinking of the Sewol when reporters were reporting off of each other's reports and not reporting via actual knowledge or via interviews. This word is now being used for any kind of reporting that is felt to be uninformed or a distortion of the facts, and this includes discussion of reports on the sinking of the Cheonan.
  • The three most conservative newspapers in Korea are: Jungang Ilbo, Chosun Ilbo, and Cheonan Ilbo.
  • The three public network groups, basically owned or controlled by the government with producers being appointed by the government, are: KBS, SBS and MBC.
  • Kim Sang-Gyoon was a producer (?) of the documentary investigating the sudden sinking of the Cheonan, "The Cheonan Project" (this might be translated incorrectly), but the documentary was not allowed to be publicly screened. 
  • The government has a history of penalizing producers who are too liberal, examples of which penal actions were taken: "추석 60분" and "제3의 부표".
  • Kim Sang-Gyoon felt forced to terminate his position and give voice to topics that the public needed to hear about, not make news-controlled information programs. He and others who felt the need to have proper voice started their own private network and are currently creating public-informing programs.



An article related to the lecture was later published in the World Current Report, Vol 11, November 2015, 2nd Anniversary Special Issue put out by ISC (International Strategy Center - 국제전력센터) .

Lecture on the Cheonan Sinking
By James Flynn

When invited by ISC to attend an interview about the Cheonan Sinking, I jumped at the chance. About a month earlier I attended the tour of the Gyeongsan Cobalt Mine Massacre site. Though the trip, I ended up learning a lot about a Korean History that’s hard to access. I liked our tour guides’ friendly and open atmosphere when we met with local community leaders who had been researching the incident and the family members of the victims. Despite the language barrier our guides encouraged open discussion, and through our conversations, I and others were motivated to learn more about this and similar incidents in Korean History. Attending a lecture on the Cheonan Sinking offered the chance to do just that.

Kim San-gyun was listed as the lecturer and billed as a former MBC producer who had researched on the Cheonan Sinking. As with the Gyeongsan Cobalt Mine tour, I was impressed with ISC’s access to civil society leaders. I thought it was particularly interesting that a former MBC producer would be doing the lecture due to the high media profile of the incident (it made global headlines), and the fact that only a couple of years later there had been a massive walk-out of media workers, led in part by MBC employees.

I had first heard about the Cheonan Sinking shortly after it occurred in late March 2010. At that time, I was a student at Rowan University in the United States. That semester, I had been enjoying a course on the history of the Soviet Union, so Cold War subjects were often on my mind. It was this class that made me interested in Korea, the only country where the Cold War had gone “hot.”

I’m not a consumer of cable media, and I avoid major networks like CNN, MSNBC, and FOX, but I did watch the PBS Newshour religiously, due to its quality and relative lack of hyperbole. Unlike the other networks, I felt that PBS covered the sinking quite objectively, withholding any blame for the incident until more evidence was brought forth. Of course, while no judgment was ever made by the anchor or written in a bulletin, by sampling the guests interviewed – especially those appearing after the US-led joint investigative team had made their conclusions, it seemed the general consensus was that the DPRK was to blame. The story then quickly disappeared from the headlines.

For myself, and I suppose for the most of us in America, the story was over. The DPRK had once again “proven itself” to be a “rogue nation” capable of unpredictable and seemingly unprovoked acts of aggression. However, after attending the lecture, I discovered that this was far from the case.

The lecturer, Kim San-gyun, revealed that from the very beginning of the incident, both the traditionally conservative newspapers (i.e. Joseon, Jungang, and Dong-a Ilbo) followed by the three major networks (KBS, SBS, and MBC) presented a single narrative, which echoed the government’s, placing blame solely at the feet of the DPRK and ignoring or dismissing any evidence to the contrary. In fact, some documentaries and news reports casting doubt on the official government statements were produced but never aired, and the producers of those programs faced penalties for allegedly seditious content.

Our lecturer went on to explain a bit more about the regulatory structure of Korean Media and why journalists are pressured to produce lines favorable to that of the government. While the Korean Press is nominally free and the major networks are run as independent companies, the heads of the public media companies are appointed directly by the president. While completely independent networks are allowed to and do indeed exist (such as JTBC) the three giants KBS, MBC, and SBS by far have the largest audiences, and even these networks are constrained in their criticism due to the government’s “anti-communist laws” which can and have been used to silence critics. It had seemed that the story ended in the late-spring of 2010, but it was clear from this lecture that a lot more had been left unexamined.

I enjoyed this lecture for the opportunity it provided to examine one of the most significant events in recent Korean history and its impact on civil society and the chance to meet with someone directly involved, Mr. Kim San-gyun. I’m looking forward to attending similar events hosted by ISC in the future.

written by James Flynn

___________________________________________________________________


Some months later -- Saturday April 23, 2016 -- Barry Welsh -- who hosts the Seoul Book and Culture Club, the Seoul Film Society and the Royal Asiatic Cinema Club -- hosted a similar topic on the controversial sinking of the Cheonan. Read as follows:


Please join Seoul Film Society and the Royal Asiatic Society Cinema Club for our first April screening on Saturday 23rd April at 2pm. We will be showing the controversial documentary film ‘Project Cheonan Ship' followed by an interview with director Baek Seung-woo. ENGLISH SUBTITLES. 

서울필름소사이어티와 왕립아시아학회가 공동 주최하는 4월 이벤트! '천안함 프로젝트'의 백승우 영화 감독님과의 만남에 초대합니다. 일정은 아래와 같습니다. 2016년 4월 23일 오후 2시. 화제의 작품이었던 다큐멘터리 영화 '천안함 프로젝트'를 상영한 후 영화를 감독하신 백승우 감독님을 모시고 감독과의 만남을 가질 예정입니다. 감독님의 이야기를 직접 듣고 질문도 해볼 수 있는 흥미로운 시간이 될 것입니다. 영화는 영어자막과 함께 제공되며 입장은 무료입니다. 

On March 26, 2010, Cheonan, a South Korean navy ship carrying 104 crewmen, sank off the country’s west coast. A government-led investigation involving experts not only from South Korea but also the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Australia and Sweden concluded that same year in May that the warship had been hit by a North Korean torpedo -- though Pyongyang denied the charges.

2010년 3월 26일 천안 부근의 서해안에서 한국 해군 104명을 태운 해군함이 침몰했습니다. 한국 정부를 포함한 미국, 영국, 캐나다, 호주, 스웨덴의 전문가들이 동원되어 진행된 조사 결과 같은 해 5월, 천안함 침몰은 북한의 어뢰 공격 때문이었다는 결론이 나왔습니다. 북한에서는 이를 부인합니다.

In his feature film debut, ‘Project Cheonan Ship’, Baek Seung-woo, an independent filmmaker who has directed several shorts, such as 2011's Wooden Goose, offers a thoroughly analytical documentary of the incident. “Contrary to the expectation that this will be a story that is argumentative and provocative, ‘Project Cheonan Ship’ gives the impression of a science documentary made by a scholar because of its consistent calmness and analysis of the story,” says JIFF executive programmer Kim Youngjin.

백승우 감독님은 독립 영화제작자로 2011년 작품인 Wooden goose를 포함하여 다양한 단편영화를 제작하였습니다. '천안함 프로젝트'는 백승우 감독의 첫 장편영화이며 천안함 사건을 치밀하게 분석한 다큐멘터리입니다. 전주국제영화제 김영진 수석프로그래머는, "많은 사람들이 이 영화를 논쟁적이고 자극적인 내용일 것이라고 기대하지만 영화 속에서 차분하게 이어지는 분석은 마치 학자가 만든 것 같은 인상을 준다" 라고 영화 '천안함 프로젝트를' 평하였습니다.

In addition to the film’s inherently controversial subject matter, ‘Project Cheonan Ship’ was produced by none other than Chung Ji-young -- the auteur of such politically charged films as ‘Unbowed’, a sleeper hit that vehemently attacks the Korean supreme court, and ‘National Security’ (Namyeong-dong 1985), a crowd-funded project about the 1985 torture of a democracy activist by the national police.

Schedule:

2pm – 3:20pm – Screening of ‘Project Cheonan Ship’
3:20pm – 3:30pm – Interval
3:30pm – 5pm – Interview and Q and A with director Baek Seung-woo and producer Chung Ji-young

This event will be moderated by film critic and journalist Nemo Kim. Nemo writes about Asian Issues for Monocle, The Korea Observer, Sight and Sound. She was formerly Korea Correspondent at Variety and editor of Reuters/TenAsia Korean Culture Desk. She also teaches Korean Cinema and Culture at Hankuk University of Foreign Studies.

저널리스트 김네모씨가 모더레이터로 진행해주실 것입니다. 김네모씨는 Monocle, The Korea Observer, Sight and Sound에 한국 관련 이슈로 기고하고 계십니다. Variety의 한국특파원, Reuters/TenAsia Korean Culture Desk의 에디터로도 활동하였습니다. 한국 외대에서 한국 영화와 문화에

This event is brought to you by:

Royal Asiatic Society Cinema Club

Friday, November 20, 2015

Korean Traditional Painting: Symbolism

The National Museum of Korea hosted a special painting class using traditional paints. The focus was on educating foreign participants on the Confucian iconic imagery in traditional art imbued with symbolic meanings. Much of the visual iconography in paintings is for giving a message, something that Westerners are unaware of when viewing Korean pictures, clothing, architecture, etc. Before participants actually started painting a picture of each person's choice, they were briefly instructed in the various meanings of some typical flora and fauna commonly featured in Korean traditional art:

FLORA:

  • peony - symbol of the king, queen or royalty - typically appearing on folding screens, royal paintings or even clothing
  • lotus blossom - not only the iconic symbol of Buddhism but also symbolizing fertility and purity

FAUNA:

  • butterfly - symbols for seniors or people of old and venerable age; also a fertility symbol and features on wedding pictures and bedding of newly-weds

examples of the use of symbols in Korean traditional art
  • duck - a symbolic prayer for the passing of a test, especially for becoming a government official; the underlying meaning is "to win first place in a scholarship competition."
  • magpie - bringer of good news, or a sign of a close friend soon to visit
  • fish - featured as a pair as are many symbols of fertility; the pair of fish symbolizes conjugal harmony
  • tiger - a most popular motif in Korean folk painting, likely originating from the mythical "white tiger" guardian spirit of the east, and so the animal is seen as a protector. The tiger is usually depicted as comical and friendly, even a stupid animal, and as such, it is a symbol for driving away evil and therefore bringing luck. It's a very complex symbol but one that typically has very positive meaning.

So many more symbols exist, but this was an introduction. After the quick introduction to the symbols, some large laminated traditional pictures, having some of the symbols described, were passed around and participants were given an art frame for painting, a tray of the basic colors of traditional paints, brushes, and a sheet of carbon paper for tracing and transferring a portion of a traditional painting to the art board.

I wasn't particularly interested in copying someone's art. Plagiarism in traditional Korean art is not considered negative in any sense, but rather is a mark of having mastered a skill. But I wanted to design and paint my own picture and, for some reason, lately I've become fascinated with cranes and ibises, symbols of longevity as are pine trees and mountains and other sipjangsaeng images, so I looked up some Asian art pictures on my smartphone and found a picture that appealed.

Painting with Korean watercolors

Korean (and Chinese) traditional watercolor paints are different than western paints. Because Korean and Chinese watercolor paints were/are typically used on rice paper, which is fragile but highly absorbent, the paint needs more starch as a binder to adhere to the paper. Because of the binder, the watercolors do not bleed as much as western watercolors which are known for running, smearing and puddling. Korean and Chinese traditional paints are also made with natural dyes and minerals rather than the finer pigment particles in western watercolors. Because of this, some of the colors are opaque (the minerals) and others (the pigments) are transparent. I read somewhere that Marie's set of 12 Chinese watercolors has seven transparent colors and five opaques, which makes the colors blend, outline and wash in very exciting complimentary ways. For this reason, the Korean or Chinese watercolors are ideal for using inksticks, sumi ink or India ink; they blend well with the ink, and unlike western colors which become muddy when blended, these make beautiful gray washes.

A simple repertoire of colors plus calligraphy ink ... to make amazing expressions on paper!
After sketching my cranes on a scrap paper (the fibers we were working with do not take eraser well at all), I very lightly transferred the sketch to the board.
It's amazing how a few simple Korean watercolors plus calligraphy ink can make such a colorful picture. The paper on the right is a unique, modern watercolor-palette paper. It replaces the palette and after use is just tossed! Very handy!
My interpretation of a painting I found online.

Sunday, November 15, 2015

Gyeongju Tour - 4 UNESCO Sites in One Weekend

The Seoul Hiking Group has been in operation for about eight years and I never knew. Was browsing Facebook and bumped into a "4 UNESCO Sites in One Weekend" tour, which immediately got my interest, especially as it included a night in the traditional Yangdong Folk village, which was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage along with Hahoe Folk Village in 2010. Both villages are preserved traditional folk villages reflecting various Joseon Dynasty socio-economic statuses, as depicted in the construction of the traditional houses: tile vs straw roofs for the yangban and the peasant classes respectively, large and small courtyards with different numbers of rooms, buildings and construction space (as built in khan) also ascribed to the respective groups. Three other UNESCO sites I had previously visited at least once were included in the weekend, but Yangdong is very hard to get to and I had never been, so I joined the tour!

UNESCO site #1: Yangdong Traditional Folk Village

We arrived around 4am at the village and were assigned rooms -- three people here in this tiny room, four over in that building, five or six over there. The bus load of 45 people was lodged in a number of small pre-designated houses. The next morning at 8am or so, one lady served a huge cauldron of hobak jook (pumpkin gruel) for our large group. Some of the group with their western tastes and expectations for pancakes and eggs for breakfast couldn't hack the stuff, but seeing that there was plenty, I went back for seconds. The stuff had sticky rice balls and beans in it and was absolutely divine! Yes for traditional healthy home-cooked food!



We wandered the village for an hour or two after eating and then boarded the bus and headed on to the historic area in Gyeongju, about 16 kilometers away.

UNESCO site #2: Gyeongju Historic Area

The Gyeongju Historic Area comprises a huge amount of land space, and in its cultural entirety was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000. Namsan Mountain is littered with the remained of Silla Dynasty Buddha sculptures, the remains of temples and palaces are in the valley below and are thought to be from the 7th through 10th centuries, old royal tombs, Buddhist art, reliefs, pagodas, old garden grounds with ponds, and more make the historic area really something to see and explore.

Much of this is traced back to the Silla Dynasty (57 BCE - 935 CE) which ruled the Korean peninsula for nearly 1,000 years. The Buddhist constructions with intricate and detailed artistic form give testimony to a highly developed society with significant cultural achievements.

Gyeongju Historic Area consists of five areas: Tumuli Park Belt, Wolseong Belt, and Namsan Belt (from which example picts are below), as well as the Hwangnyongsa Belt and Sanseong Fortress Belt) which we didn't explore much on this particular trip.
The Tumuli Park Belt consists of three groups of Royal Tombs. Here one cluster is shown. In the foreground are the extant foundation stones of a Silla palace. (By description this seems to be in the Tumuli Belt but by location it seems to be in the Wolseong Belt, so not definite on how to classify these tombs.)
The Wolseong Belt includes the ruined palace site of Wolseong, the Gyerim woodland which legend identifies as the birthplace of the founder of the Gyeongju Kim clan, Anapji Pond, on the site of the ruined Imhaejeon Palace, and the Cheomseongdae Observatory (pictured).
Cheomgseongdae Astronomical Observatory - the ancient study of the stars, constellations and their movement and how they foretold the rise and fall of kings fascinates me! Astronomy mixed with astrology. Don't underestimate the Silla Dynasty on their astrological beliefs. Their knowledge of astronomy was incredible!
Beautiful Anapji Pond in the Wolseong Belt.
This place is one hot place for photographers to come and get their stellar shots. I'm pretty proud of my shot here with my little PhD (push here dummy) pocket-sized Canon. But how can a person take a bad shot in such a gorgeous setting?!
A beautiful bridge recently constructed in the Joseon architectural style. Opposite the bridge is an area being developed for cultural tourism. The area is comprised of modern hanok functioning as restaurants, tea houses and elegant places to sleep and places to have cultural classes/experiences.
A line-up of headless Buddha images along one wall of the Gyeongju National Museum. As one story goes, the images were beheaded when an unknown group (late in the dynasty or after its fall) invaded and desecrated the statues in a symbolic attempt of removing the kingdom's spiritual iconography. The statues were in modern times found buried but without their heads. Another story from Southeast Asia (e.g. Angkor Wat) that may apply here also is that statues were highly regarded as tourist items but since many stone statues were too large and heavy to transport, their heads were removed and taken to the tourists' home countries. 
The historic area includes the holy Namsan Mountain

Namsan Mountain, a mountain literally littered with Buddha images, is a holy mountain and reflects the strong Silla culture with Buddhism at its religious center. In a three-hour hike, we must have passed about 11 Buddha images, some as free-standing carved images and some as relief in sheer rock walls, but basically all of them were huge and impressive!
UNESCO site #3: Seokguram grotto - a sunrise hike

When traveling with the Seoul Hiking Group, just plan on an early morning hike. Of course it's optional but why miss out on a spectacular view that Warren, the leader, has planned?! He's an avid hiker and he knows some spectacular routes. One glitch in this hiking plan, however, was that the entrance gate to Seokguram grotto seems to no longer open early in the morning for those wanting the sunrise hike. Poor Warren. He wanted us to experience the beauty of the mountain top and the holy grotto with the first touches of the rays of the sun. Ah well. We had to wait until the new gate opening time of 7am before we could continue our hike, an approximate 45 minutes up to Seokguram from the gate. We missed the sunrise but caught it when we were almost there. Golden and beautiful on the dead branches. Very visually warming on such a cold morning!
Just a pavilion of recent construction built between the Gyeongju youth hostel
and the hiking trail leading up to Seokguram grotto.

Feel the power of this massive 3.5 meter high rock-carved Buddha housed in a grotto of silence and respect. Initially this deep, lightless construction didn't exist but in the process of preserving the Buddha from mildew the sun no longer hits the jewel of the Buddha at sunrise. At the height of its glory the jewel on the forehead of the Buddha was touched by the first rays of the rising sun in the morning. The jewel has long since disappeared, although the Buddha at presents wears another. [I'm not sure if researchers even know which kind of jewel the Buddha initially wore.]

In 1962, the grotto was designated as Korea's 24th national treasure. In 1995, the grotto was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage. The Seokguram Buddha is an example of some of the best Buddhist sculpture in the world.
Picture by E. Riviera
UNESCO site #4: Bulguksa temple

Bulguksa Temple, along with Seokguram Grotto, was designed as a UNESCO World Heritage in 1995. The picture immediately below is the iconic picture of Bulguksa with its Cheongun-gyo "blue cloud bridge". The Korean government classifies the temple as Historic and Scenic Site Number 1, and indeed, it's very hard to get a picture without tons and tons of other people vying for the same picture by pushing in front of your camera or just ambling without goal or thought other than to take a picture around the beautiful temple grounds. This scenic site, in my opinion, gets too much attention (and people taking thousands and thousands of selfies everywhere drive me insane!)

I last visited this temple in 2008, and the cultural tourism was starting to really take off, but then this temple has been heavily visited for years, and back in the late 1980s and early 1990s, Gyeongju and the temple were the "in places" for honeymooners to travel to. Gyeongju definitely has changed because of the modern-day ideas of cultural tourism. Since my last visit in 2008, this place has lots more people and, like everywhere else, tries to attract people with material things, such an anti-Buddhist concept! So the temple grounds features forms of "entertainment" now - snack and coffee stands, little shops for silly keepsakes and souvenirs, just things to purchase or things to do. I was surprised to see so many people actually eating on formerly "holy" temple grounds, something I didn't see before. More places for kids to do crafts or play games ... temples were formerly respected. Not now evidently.

Under one of the roofs of a temple building. I don't understand this imagery but it does captivate the imagination.
When I understand the iconographic message, I will be sure to share!
 Seoul Hiking Group

A collage of some of our group members climbing up the holy Namsan Mountain.

Sunday, November 8, 2015

Touring Bongjeongsa (Andong) and Bogyeongsa (Pohang)

Dongguk University International Seon Center offered a weekend templestay at an Andong and a Pohang temple. I had never participated in a templestay because I always felt like it was targeting to foreigners to "teach" them how to do mundane little things like sweep the ground for two hours as without work no one eats, or to make a lotus lantern, or how to do 108 Buddhist bows. Seriously, I am not interested in being shepherded around with foreigners who "need to be taught" like attending a Buddhist temple is a giant lesson. However, when I saw the call for interested participants to join the templestay program hosted by a Seon center, I thought, "Now here's a chance to go to a temple and have a more authentic experience about how Buddhists practice". There were only five foreigners who went with about 35 Koreans, not all of whom were Buddhists, so it was a chance to emulate, ask questions and quietly learn. 

Bongjeongsa in Andong, of the 16th branch of the Chogye Order

Background: Said to have been founded in 672 during the reign of King Munmu of Unified Silla. According to legend, the Buddhist monk Uisang, the national preceptor of Silla, chose the site after a paper phoenix he released at nearby Buseoksa floated to the Bongjeongsa current site and landed heralding propitious blessings on the grounds.

Among the 10 buildings at the main temple, five have been designated as treasures  one National Treasure, three Treasures and one Provincial Treasure.
  • National Treasure #15 - Geukrakjeon (Nirvana Hall) of Bongjeongsa is one of the rare specimens of Goryeo wooden architecture still standing in Korea, and is in fact considered Korea's oldest wooden building -- built in 1363. 
헌식대 - (literally, 'contributing' + 'food' + 'platform') the stone table in a Buddhist courtyard for giving blessed offerigns after a ceremony to animals, the action is symbolic of the compassion of Buddhism

In the corner of the temple's yard
a few grains of rice are placed on top of a small stone altar.
During barugongyang, monks took small bites of their food
to share with squirrels and birds.
All sentient beings share together.

  • Treasure #55 - Daeungjeon, the main temple hall with its stunning original murals, represents the building styles of the early Joseon Dynasty. It is noted for its column-head brackets and curved bracketing, a style imported from Song China, with whom the Goryeo rulers maintained regular contact with. Later in the Goryeo dynasty this bracketing style evolved into a multi-clustered bracketing inherited from the Yuan, which clustered brackets on column heads as well as between the columns of the beams. 
  • Treasure #448 - Hwaeom Gangdang, a study hall constructed in 1588 during the mid-Joseon Dynasty
  • Treasure #449 - Gogeumdang, a small worship hall constructed in 1616
  • Provincial Treasure #325 - Manseru, a meeting hall containing the four Buddhist instruments for waking and calling the sentient beings

Inside the unusually spacious Manseru, the hall containing
the four Buddhist instruments, three of which are pictured.

Bogyeongsa in Pohang, of the 11th branch of the Chogye Order

Bogyeongsa was founded in 603 AD during the 25th year of King Jinpyeong's reign of the Silla period. Monk Daedeok Jimyeong studied Buddhism in China and returned home with an octangular treasure mirror (bokyeong in Korean and meaning 'scripture'). Upon his return, he showed the mirror to the Buddhist king and told him, "If you discover an auspicious site on an east coast mountain, bury the palmyeongbogyeong (the eight destiny-or-precept scripture-mirror) and build a Buddhist temple. You will be able to prevent Japanese pirates from invading and you will unify the Three Kingdoms." The delighted king took the mirror and sailed north along the coast. Passing Pohang he saw Mt. Naeyeonsan covered with five-colored clouds. On the slopes under the five-colored clouds the king buried the scripture/mirror in a pond and filled the pond with earth, forming the foundation of Bogyeongsa. 
No one seems to really "know" where the great mirror-scripture was buried, but when we first arrived, another participant and myself walked around in the rain and thought that perhaps the area under the kimchi pots. It looked like an area that could have once been a pond that was filled in, but we weren't taking into consideration the hundreds of years that would change the look. Fun to speculate though.
Supposedly the scripture-mirror is under the Daewungjeon, the Buddha Hall, built in 1677 and which houses the three Buddha statues -- Amitabha (Infinite Life) Buddha in the center (아미타블) , Mahasthamaprapta (Bodhisattva of Great Wisdom - 대세지보살), and Avalokiteshvara (Bodhisattva of Great Compassion - 관세음보살).

Jeokkwangjeon (the Hall of Great Peace and Light) was built in 1740 and is grounded on the Flower Adornment Sutra, which is dedicated to Vairochana Buddha (Manifestation of Dharma), who radiates the light of truth in every direction of the universe. In Seon Buddhism, this is the Hall of the Three Bodies of a Buddha -- Dharmakaya (Vairochana) or the Dharma-body Buddha in the center, Sambhokaya (Rocana) or the Delight-body Buddha on the left, and the Nirmanakaya (Sakyamuni) or the Transformation-body Buddha on the right.

Myungbujeon (the Hall of Ksitigarbah Bodhisattva) or the Hall of the Bodhisattva of Hell built in 1678. It is also known as the Judgment Hall where ten kings are enshrined to judge the fates of the deceased according to their earthly deeds.

Palsangjeon (the Hall of Eight Aspects of Sakyamuni Buddha life) was built in 1678. It has eight Aspects of Sakyamuni Buddha's life. Eight scenes from the life of the Buddha who came to this world to deliver all living things:
  1. Depiction of Maya's pregnancy - foretelling dream, or the announcement of Buddha's Imminent birth
  2. The birth of Buddha in the Lumbini grove
  3. His four scenes of human existence (aging, sickness, dead body, and asceticism).
  4. His great renunciation (leaving the palace in search of Truth)
  5. His ascetic practice on a snowy mountain.
  6. His temptation and enlightenment under the bodhi tree.
  7. His first turning of the wheel of the Dharma at Deer Park in Baranes.
  8. His entering parinirvana under the twin sara tree.
The Hall of Disciples and Arhats - a recapitulation of the sermon on Vulture Peak Mountain with ten major disciples and sixteen Arhats.

Other unique structures:

Bell Pavilion where the four Buddhist instruments for Buddhist services are  a Dharma bell, a cloud-shaped brass, a wooden fish-shaped gong, and a great bell. All are for waking the sentient beings and calling them to worship.

Cheongwang-mun (the gate of the heavenly guardians), built in 1686 for the protection of both the temple and Buddha-Dharma.

Mountain Spirit Shrine - symbolizes the worshiping of the mountain spirit, an influence of Taoism. This is a typical aspect of Korean Buddhism, a coexistence of Buddhism, and the beliefs of folklore and shamanism.

Wonjin-gak, built in 1677, and enshrines the national master Venerable Wonjin in the Goryeo dynasty and 16 other great monks who studied in the temple.

Religious and cultural treasures in Bogyeongsa:
  • Treasure #11-1 - Bogyeongsa Bronze Bell crafted in 1667 by artisan monk Sa In.
  • Treasure #252 - National Master Wonjin's epitaph
  • Treasure #430 - Bogyeongsa stupa (budo) for the monk Venerable Wonjin; built in 1224
  • Treasure #1609 - Bogyeongsa Scroll Painting of Buddha (a long hanging Buddha scroll painting)
  • Provincial Treasure #203 - Five-story stone pagoda
  • Provincial Treasure #408 - Sarira stupa of the stone monument where sariras of great masters are enshrined
It was at this great temple with its many buildings that our Dongguk University Seon Center group gathered for templestay. Despite the rain, we were guided around the temple to familiar ourselves with the many buildings and told which buildings were used for different kinds of meditation. So many buildings, so the next morning at 3:30a.m. when we three foreign girls tried to find the correct building for the before sunrise call to meditation, rudely we arrived late because we went to the wrong temple ... in the rain and mud ... and it was already unpleasant getting up at 3:30a.m. 



We gathered to chant (well, listen to chanting) ...



... and meditate some more before we did the 108 bows (I still don't know the significance of this or the 108 beads, but I do know my legs felt like jelly afterwards!) ...


... We had Dharma talks ...


... and did personal meditation with legs crossed (if we could) for an hour. 
One of our foreign friends -- dang, the dude must have a sleeping disorder promptly, he promptly fell asleep, in almost any position, and snored. It was hard not to laugh ... and we were supposed to be absolutely silent so as not to disturb others in mediation!


... and of course we enjoyed delicious Buddhist temple food! Not pictures but well tasted!

Bogyeongsa is a beautiful temple hidden among trees on gently ascending slopes. Entering through the first gate, the one-pillar gate of Buddhism, is also entering into the valley of waterfalls. Flowing down Mt. Naeyeonsan to the back of Bogyeongsa are 12 waterfalls, the first seven are easily accessible along a trail paralleling the temple and snaking up the mountain behind.

Ssangsaeng or Twin Waterfall

Waterfall #7 among the 12 waterfalls - Yeonsan Waterfall, at 30 meters
Because it rained all weekend, the waterfalls were beautiful and very powerful! My weekend breath-taking moments!
Mr Kim, the Seon center director was delighted to show us this Korean beauty spot!
Waterfall #7 flowing down Mt. Naeyeonsan 
Meditating in front of Yeonsan Waterfall on Mt Naeyeonsan, Pohang

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